I hear a clicking noise from what I think to be my fuel injectors maybe. I added fuel cleaner to the tank of gas I have now.I cleaned my mas. I tried a new throttle body in case it was my TPS. It sometimes wants to bog down when I turn the steering wheel and am going slow and sometimes does a ruff bog when I come to a stop. Some times if I were to put it into second my rpm's fluctuate lightly. When I say sometimes I mean I can put it into park then into drive and it be fine three times in a row but then on the fourth it'll want to stall out. It idles smooth but for some reason it wants to bog down sometimes. Randomly when I put it into drive (only drive does this) it will bog down and want to stall out (let me add it has stalled out doing this multiple times now) it starts up beautifully. It ran amazing when I bought it but I haven't made a payment yet and already have had some issues with it. So I just bought this truck with a 5.4l triton. Also, if you have a live data scan tool, hook it up and let me know the short term fuel trims. Anything you can think of that will help. For example, you smell fuel, black smoke from the exhaust, it's running hotter than normal. Also, let me know if other than the bogging and stalling at a stop, there are additional symptoms. Here is a video that shows how it's done: Basically, all of the modules / computers in the vehicle are tied together via this network. Has the check engine light turned on and stayed on with the engine running? If it has, before doing anything more, scan the CAN bus system on the vehicle. Next, low fuel pressure can be a concern as well as things such as a partially plugged catalytic converter. First, I think it's a good idea to check for engine vacuum leaks. So cleaning those up may offer some improvement too.There are a few things that can cause what you described. Another reason is that with the TBH off, there is a couple of internal EGR ports in the TBH that also can get carboned up over time and can result in poor runability as well. Myself Have had better success removing the whole Throttle Body Housing (TBH) & the IAC comes with it, thereby, giving better access to the IAC. That said, the IAC can be removed by itself, but it is a booger. This can be removed and cleaned, ( good ole WD40 works well here, carbon cleaner is a bit too harsh), inside there is a little rod that needs to move freely, Spray liberally to clean to loosen carbon deposits making sure the little rod moves freely, repeat as necessary, let dry and reinstall. This is located on the back side of the upper intake. Then I'd also look at the IAC ( Idle Air Control) module. it does not & considering that it does it on a idle. Changing the fuel and air filter is just good maintenance & is the simple and easy stuff to handle. Sounds good TK hopefully that takes care of it.
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December 2022
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